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Mammie and the Moonshiners
A True Tale from the Ridge


moonshineBy Mauna Faye Crabtree


On January 27, in 1838, Tennessee became the first state in the Union to outlaw alcohol, and an industry would burgeon here for which the state would be known for generations to come--making bootleg whiskey. The Ridge was no stranger to such industry and quart mason jars of the locally-brewed, pristine clear "white light'ning" were still passed about here at least into the 1970's, perhaps beyond.

Enacting such a law was, no doubt, a bold move for the young state, but one can only imagine the troubles folks here had seen stemming from alcohol. Many natives and part-blood natives, whose genetic make-up made them poorly disposed to the white man's gift of "firewater," were a real part of our ethnic landscape. Tensions were high as the federal government, fevered by the lust for gold, was moving to claim all native lands and send the rightful owners to the Darkening Land. Throw into the mix those of other ethnicities who simply couldn't "hold their liquor," give them the freedom found by the rugged pioneers in this the Old West, and you had the makings of many a brawl and shooting.

My grandmother,
Nellie (Adcock) Nicholson, born in 1894, had seen the troubles caused by alcohol on The Ridge and when she married, the law was laid down that no alcohol would ever come into her home. She hated alcohol and all the misery associated with it. There was only one exception to this rule through the years. At Christmastime Mammie would always manage to acquire some Germantown Hill wine for her fruit cakes. Even then, the wine was never actually added to the cake batter. Instead, Mammie would tear strips of clean, white cotton cloth and soak them in the wine. Then, when the cakes came out of the oven, she would wrap the spirits-soaked fabric strips around them so the wine could be absorbed into the confection.

Mammie was a fierce little warrior of a woman; one-quarter Cherokee, she was reared, and would rear her So strong was her love...
children and grandchildren, within the framework of that strong matriarchal culture. There was right and there was wrong in this world. When she saw injustice and suffering, she moved to remedy it. So strong was her love for her kin, her "blood," that she would have faced down the devil himself had he threatened those she loved. And to Mammie alcohol (which she and other old-timers on The Ridge pronounced "al KEE hol") was the very devil.

I recall the occasion in the early 1960's when a bleary-eyed sojourner, sent out into the world to find his way home when the American Legion, then housed in a basement building on the southeast corner of the intersection of Old Clarksville Pike and Eatons Creek Road, closed late on Saturday night/Sunday morning, wandered up to our door and pounded away at 3:00 a.m. believing he had arrived at his intended destination. Mammie threw back the two long braids of her black hair, that had never been cut in her life and that in daytime she wore in the centuries-old classic Cherokee style encircling her head like a garland. She fearlessly went to the door and tried to talk the poor drunken wayfarer into moving on elsewhere. As there were no men in our household, we called one of my uncles who crawled out of bed and brought a shotgun to keep watch over the visitor in case he got too unruly while we all endured the lengthy wait for the police to arrive. The overindulger got "a good talking to" from the policeman and was sent on his way down the road to make it home as best he could.

So it was
around 1930 that, when she learned two of her brothers-in-law had set up a still in a nearby hollow, Mammie took action. Moving, no doubt with a warrior's stealth, through the thick undergrowth of the hollow, Mammie made her way to the site and poured kerosene, turpentine, and probably whatever other foul tasting fluids she could find into the still. Can you imagine the looks on the brewmasters' faces when they taste-tested their latest batch? Their time and investment had been ruined and they could do little but start over.

Sometime thereafter, Mammie ventured out one morning and took a head count of her chickens. This is done quite naturally and automatically upon rising by anyone who raises animals. But on this day, she was one fat hen short. Upon further investigation, she discovered a trail of feathers that she followed with her eldest daughter at her side. The trail lead right to the front porch of a "poor old soul" neighbor man whose family had been hit even harder, if that was possible, by the Depression than had her own. Mammie had mouths to feed and in those days one couldn't simply run to a 24-hour grocery and pick up provisions. Even if the store had been available, the money wasn't. Losing a chicken was like taking food out of her children's and her husband's mouths. It was serious business.

Mammie knocked on her neighbor's door and announced that she had followed the trail of feathers to his porch and she believed that he had taken her hen. Purloining a neighbor's chicken was not uncommon during the Depression. I often heard my Uncle Jesse Brady, say that President Hoover had promised them two chickens in every pot, "but he didn't tell us we'd have to steal the chickens." The neighbor's surprise appeared genuine. "Miss Nellie, I didn't steal your chicken," he humbly replied. The evidence clearly showed otherwise. "The feathers lead right here to your door," Mammie declared. "I bet you've got her in a pot cooking right now." The neighbor maintained his innocence and did so till he was called to his reward. And till her dying day, Mammie believed that the fellow had taken her chicken.

Mammie passed away on Christmas Eve in 1977 at age 84. The outpouring of sympathy from the community was overwhelming. The kind ladies at the Joelton Flower Shop left their homes and families on a cold Christmas Sunday morning and went to work to prepare the many beautiful floral arrangements that were sent to mark her passing. To this day I've never seen so many flowers at a funeral home. It was clear that our deep sense of loss was shared by our neighbors, our community, our people. We had all lost a connection to our past, to another time. A visitor at the funeral home remarked, "This is the passing of an era on The Ridge." And it was so. We, her children and grandchildren, were left the keepers of her stories, including this one I share with you today.

But we did not learn the rest of the story until we were gathered there with our cousins before Mammie's casket. Everyone involved with the moonshine affair and the chicken caper had then been called home, so the cousins felt safe in divulging the truth. Their fathers, the industrious brewers, had learned that their sister-in-law Nellie had ruined their brew and it was they who had taken her chicken with the stealth of a fox in the night and spread the feathers along the path to the neighbor's so that the shadow of blame would be cast on him. (What actually happened to the chicken is still a mystery, but the ultimate fate of any hen in those days was pretty certain.)

There was nothing to do
but to go to the children of the accused man who were there at the funeral home and apologize for the error that had been made half a century before. Mammie would have been humbled with regret for her error. She would probably have cooked a fat hen for him as an apology for her ill-founded accusation had she ever learned the truth. But all had gone to their reward where all truths were made known and all indiscretions forgiven through the mercy of our loving Father in Heaven.

However, if the Lord should ever decide to entertain the multitudes and He ponders the notion of turning water into wine, Mammie will certainly toss back her braids and go have a word with Him about it. He just made her that way.

Copyright 2002 Mauna Faye Crabtree

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